I had been doing the lone wolf surf routine the past few months around the BVI’s and Puerto Rico  to witness history at the Rip Curl Pro and score  good surf all around the “Isle de Encanto.”   In early November I received an e-mail from my surf brother  ”Dawgman” who was jones’n for some island juice.  His sad puppy “can I get an invite” just couldn’t be ignored.   I had scoped out a few new surf breaks in the Spanish Virgin Islands, made many new surfing friends on PR and crossed paths with Kelly Slater in Arecibo after he had just won his 10th World Championship at Middles. It was definitely time to escape surf civilization exploring some crystal blue out island perfection.

After readying my sloop for a few days by completing many of the never ending boat projects  and  a short road trip to swoop up Dawgman early afternoon at the San Juan Airport.   3 hours later after our  drive to Fajardo;  a provision run to the Mercado and a short dingy ride to my sloop;  we were sailing East with a setting sun in our wake!  To my surprise Dawgman informed me today was his Birthday and the other good news was he could see big ocean swell lines from his jet window seat, there was a building swell in our surf forecast.  A little celebration was due so I broke out my private stock a bottle of Bounty Rum from Fiji for us to toast his birthday and the start of a new surf adventure.   We spent the night on the hook in the lee of one of the Passage islands with a slight roll to the boat from a wrapping North swell.  After an early Bacon, eggs and coffee Gringo breakfast from the sloops galley we set off to our secret surf spot destination.   Sailing past the first sighted surf spot revealed solid swell hitting an outer slab reef followed by a dolphin encounter of our smile E  friends swimming in the sloops bow wake, all good signs. Sailing past a few small islands and a series of bays with rocky points and sandy beaches all showing swell show’d even more promise.  We were greeted with sweet lines peeling down our destination reef break and light side offshore winds.  The swell was forecasted to peak with dying winds that night through the the following mourning!  There were 3 locals out surfing and ass the tide filled in the swell picked up, everyone was getting long rides and the big sets swung wide on the outside or rolled by between islands to break on an outer reef peak reef just off a neighboring island.  After a few hours surfing it was time for Scooby snacks and a recon of a few of the other surf breaks in  the area.  Figuring it was polite to take a break and  to let the local’s enjoy their wave we moved the sloop to the lee side of another island across the channel.  A short dinghy ride aroud the corner revealed a point with a bay that was maxed out and several outer bombi reefs were breaking DOH!!! The bay was huge from the backs with no defined channel.  I had anchored in this bay several weeks before and witnessed a perfect point reef set up with small swell but this huge swell had the entire bay closed out, with a well timed speed  run between sets to get inside the bay were able to watch the waves breaking and see it wasn’t really surf able with the current swell direction so back to the sloop we went.  Dawgman and I paddled back out at secret spot an hour before dark and had the reef point to our selves!!   The biggest sets had 10 foot plus faces and rides of 250 to 300  yards.  There was definitely a spooky feeling to the lineup as the sun was setting!  The area Is known to locals as good fishing grounds, what was lurking below us will be a mystery but the man in the grey suits presence was made known by some up-swirls of water and  jumping  blackfin  tunas.  I scored a few sets with a walled heavy drop take off speed section, depositing me into another wave section suited to  perform a series of cut back before stalling for tubes in the two inside bowls.  What a way to end my session and dinghy ride back to the sailboat for well deserved Cervesas and a boat BBQ’d chicken dinner.  Even though it took 2 hours Dawgman out did himself in the Galley and on the BBQ thanks mate !  We spent the next 2 days surfin and exploring the many bays, reefs and beaches of several islands then headed back to PR to seek out more wave treasures around Arecibo.  We were hosted by my friend “El Doctor” and surfed many of the Isle de Encantos lesser know and semi secret waves score’n the goodies wherever we surfed!  We hiked down a beautiful beach with chin deep sand to cross a river mouth only to hike another 15 minutes along a palm tree lined beach to be greeted by super fun right reef /. point surf with only our crew of 5 surfers out!!!! Having a local friend / guide paid off and we followed the session with some road side coco frios for a refresshing finish of the day!